In powder, on an icy slope or in the snowpark – well-waxed skis are a game-changer in any snow condition. We'll show you step by step how to get your skis in top shape and what to look out for when waxing.
How do I check my skis?
Before you start waxing, give your skis a general check. Regular inspections are important to stay safe on the mountain. Small issues like a missing binding screw can end your day on the slopes faster than you'd like.
Your checklist for skis and bindings
- Do your bindings have any cracks or breaks?
- Are all parts of your bindings complete?
- Are all screws tight?
- Is the base damaged or brittle?
- Are the edges rusty or damaged?
- Do you need anything else for your skis, bindings, helmet, goggles or snow gear?
Note: If you notice serious damage to the base, edges or bindings, take your skis to a service workshop.
How do I wax my skis?
Waxing your own skis not only saves money – it's actually pretty satisfying. And afterwards you know exactly what condition your setup is in. With the right equipment and a bit of time, it's easier than you'd think.
What you need:
- A well-ventilated room
- A sturdy workbench
- A soft cloth to clean the base of your skis
- Base cleaner
- Waxing iron
- Ski wax
- Plexiglass ski scraper
- Brushes
- Your skis
Optional:
- An old sheet to protect your workbench from wax
- Ski vises to keep your skis stable
How to wax your skis – step-by-step guide
Set up your work area
Waxing skis
Clear enough space and cover all surfaces with an old cloth to protect them from wax. Ski vises help keep your skis stable and at the right working height. Loosen or remove your bindings – this makes scraping off the wax much easier later on.
Clean the base
Use a soft cloth with some base cleaner to remove any dirt from the base. It's worth being thorough here – a clean base absorbs wax evenly, a dirty one barely at all.
Switch on the waxing iron
The right temperature is listed on the wax packaging. Set the iron accordingly and give it a moment to heat up. Watch out – waxing irons heat up very quickly.
Choose your wax
Not every wax suits every day on the mountain. Snow temperature is the key factor: cold conditions between -10 and -30 °C call for a different wax than slushy spring snow around 0 to -6 °C. If you don't want to think about it every time, an all-temperature or universal wax is a reliable choice for most conditions.
Apply the wax to your skis
Waxing skis
Press the wax against the heated iron until it starts to drip onto the base of your skis. First drip it along the edges, then work your way across the rest of the surface in a zigzag pattern. Be generous with the amount of wax you use – you really can't overdo it. Watch out! If your waxing iron starts to smoke, it's burning the wax instead of melting it. Turn the temperature down a notch.
Use the waxing iron to melt the wax into the base
Spread the wax evenly across the entire base using the iron. Important: keep the iron moving at all times to avoid burning the base. The top of your skis should feel warm to the touch – no hotter than that. Don't touch the edges!
Let your skis rest
Now it's time to be patient. Let your skis rest for at least 30 minutes after waxing – the longer the better, as the wax needs time to fully absorb into the base. Reaching for the scraper too early means leaving glide performance on the table.
Scrape off the wax
Hold the scraper firmly with both hands and scrape the wax off the base from top to bottom. Keep going until there's no more wax coming off.
Brush the base
Now grab the brush: work from top to bottom with long, even strokes. Keep going until no more wax dust comes off the base. Harder strokes remove more residue, lighter ones just polish the surface – so put some effort in.
Ski Wax
Which ski wax is right for me?
Choosing the right wax comes down to the snow conditions you're heading into. Cold powder calls for something different than wet spring snow – and if you want to keep things simple, a universal wax has you covered.
Here's an overview of the different wax types and what they're good for:
- Liquid wax absorbs quickly, is usually compact with an applicator included and fits in any jacket pocket.
- Pastes and sprays also absorb quickly and may require a polishing tool depending on the product.
- Rub-on wax is applied dry and directly to the base – a quick polish afterwards may be needed.
- Hot wax penetrates deep into the base structure and lasts longer than cold wax – don't forget the waxing iron.
- All-temperature / universal wax works across all snow and temperature conditions.
- Race wax is precisely tuned for competitive skiing and specific snow and performance requirements.
- Eco wax is biodegradable and free from fluoride, paraffin, PFCs and similar substances.
Now you know how it's done – get after it!